Justyna Mleczak nandritra ny diany iray tao Makedônia Avaratra. Sary nahazoana alàlana taminy.

Ny Meta.mk no namoaka voalohany [mk] ity lahatsoratra ity. Dika nokiraina no naverina navoaka etoana ao anatin'ny fifanarahana iray hifampizara votoaty nifanaovan'ny Global Voices sy ny Metamorphosis Foundation.

Pôlôney bilaogera mpiresaka momba ny fivezivezena i Justyna Mleczak izay mitantana ny Do Macedonii [pl], bilaogy iray amin'ny fiteny pôlôney miresaka ireo diany tany Makedônia Avaratra sy Albania.

Hatramin'ny 2016, any Albania izy no mandany ny lohataonany rehetra, toerana anaovany ny asa maha-mpitaridia azy, ary itsidihany tsy tapaka an'i Makedônia Avaratra. Farany teo, nitsidika an'i Makedônia Avaratra izy, niaraka tamin'ny fandaharanasa Smart Tourism Enhancement Project (STEP) [mk] tohanan'ny vondrona eorôpeana.

Amin'izao fotoana izao izy dia eo am-pamaranana ny fanoratana ny boky nomerika novokariny momba an'i Makedônia Avaratra. Fa etsy andanin'izay, mikarakara izy kaonferansa iray momba an-dry zareo ao Balkàna any an-tsekoly, ireo anjerimanontolo hatramin'ireo klioba mpisera dia ao amin'ny tanàna nahaterahany any Pôlônina.

Nifampiresaka tamin'ny imailaka i Justyna Mleczak sy i Violeta Jonchevska avy amin'ny Metamorphosis momba ny fomba naha-latsa-pitiavana azy tamin'i Makedônia Avaratra, ary koa momba ny fomba ampiasàny ireo teknôlôjia nomerika mba hampifandraisana ireo olona avy amin'ny kolontsaina isankarazany.

Violeta Jonchevska (VJ) : Inona no antony nandraisanao fanapahankevitra ho lasa mpitaridia matianina ao Makedônia Avaratra sy amin'ny fomba midadasika kokoa ao amin'io faritra io?

Justyna Mleczak (JM):

It has never been an idea for living and truth be told, it is still not. I mean, legally I cannot even be a professional tour guide in Macedonia as to take the exam you firstly need to get a citizenship. On the other hand, I always thought I would become a non fiction journalist or a war/social correspondent. I was reading cover to cover books written by Tiziano Terzani, Egon Kisch, Joseph Kessel, Ernest Hemingway and lots of our famous Polish reporters. I have been also always intrigued and fascinated by history – with a great inner belief that there are thousands of voices which we cannot hear or somebody does not want us to listen to them.

However, until 2015/2016 I did not have even a slightest idea about modern history of North Macedonia or Albania and maybe a little bit about the Balkans. I have just finished my Bachelor on Central European Studies and I was going to go deeper on Caucasus or at least Hungary-Romania. This year, summer 2015, I was responsible for our family holidays. Frankly, I did not remember, why I chose Vlore in Albania. A few weeks later we started the journey which changed everything.

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Justyna Mleczak (JM) : 

Aleo dia tsorina ny marina fa tsy izany velively no tanjoko tany am-boalohany, ary tsy mbola izany mihitsy. Ny tiako ambara dia, raha araka ny lalàna, tsy afaka ny hanao ny asan'ny mpitaridia matianina eto Makedônia Avaratra akory aho, satria voalohany indrindra dia mila mandalo fanadinana aloha ianao mba hahazo ny zompirenena. Etsy ankilan'izay, nihevitra foana aho ny ho lasa mpanao gazety mpanoratra tantara na mpifandray mpanome vaovao ara-tsosialy na momba ny ady. Indray mielatra no amakiako ny boky nosoratan-dry Tiziano Terzani, Egon Kisch, Joseph Kessel, Ernest Hemingway sy ireo Pôlôney marobe malaza mpitati-baovao. Nahaliana sy nahavariana ahy ihany koa ny tantara – ary finoana latsaka anatiko tao ny hoe misy an-arivony maro ireo feo izay tsy afaka hisy handre, na tsy tian'ny olona sasany ho rentsika.

Kanefa, mandra-pahatongan'ny 2015/2016 tsy mbola nahafantatra na dia kely monja momba izay tantara maoderina momba an'i Makedônia Avaratra aho na Albania, ary angamba sombiny kely momba an'ireo Balkàna. Vao avy nahazo ny lisansa momba ny Fandalinana an'i Eorôpa Afovoany aho tamin'izany ary nandeha lalindalina kokoa momba an'i Kaokazy na farafahakeliny momba an'i Hongria sy Romania. Tamin'io taona io, ny lohataonan'ny 2015, izaho no tomponandraikitra tamin'ny fialantsasatry ny fianakavianay. Mba marina, tsy tsaroako ny antony nisafidianako an'i Vlore any Albania. Herinandro vitsivitsy toarian'izay no nanombohanay ilay dia nanova ny zavatra rehetra

VJ : Nanao ahoana ny fizotran'ny fitsidihanao voalohany an'i Makedônia Avaratra?

JM: My first visit in Skopje was just ridiculous. We arrived to the capital quite early and with hope for a bit of sightseeing. Instead, we were circling the city trying to find non-existent street or just reach the owner of our rented apartment. After a few hours the only thing we wanted was something to eat. Believe me or not, we were not able to find any open restaurant. And I am laughing at us even in this moment, because… we gave up one hundred meters from the Stone Bridge and Old Bazaar. One hundred meters separated us from the heart of Skopje!

Justyna Mleczak overlooking Ohrid Lake from a summit Galičica mountain. Photo used with her permission.

Anyway, of course I was astonished by all the statutes but mostly – the secret story behind them. Next day we stopped for a coffee in Ohrid. I mean, my family were drinking coffee, I was wandering around. At that moment, I started to consider another field of study.

Two months after our return home, my article about Albania was published in Poznaj Świat, one of the most famous travel magazines in Poland. I got the invitation for an internship in Albania by a Polish woman who I worked with in her travel agency in Albania for the next four years and I started my Balkan Studies. I fell in love with Macedonian language immediately and I decided to write a Master Thesis which will connect my passions. On September 2016 I came for a 6 months’ research. I was writing about the potential of tourism in solving conflicts.

I started a blog. It was a bit of a journal, a bit of a practice to publish a non-fiction book about Macedonia one day. And after four years… here we are. I did not publish a book, I did not go on Ph.D. studies. I am, accidentally, in love with Macedonia.

Quite a long story, huh? I should have probably said: I have been dreaming about it since I was 5!

JM : Ny fitsidihako voalohany tao Skopje, dia tena kidaladala tsotra fotsiny izao. Tonga taloha be tao an-drenivohitra izahay, nanantena ny mba ho afaka hitetitety kely. Saingy tsy izay, nihodinkodina tao an-tanàna izahay niezaka ny hahita làlana iray tsy fantatra, na hifandray amin'ny tompon'ilay efitrano nofainay. Ora vitsivitsy taorian'izay, ny hany zavatra nirianay sisa dia ny hahita zavatra hohanina. Afaka mino ianao na tsia, tsy nahita trano fisakafoanana nisokatra izahay, na iray aza. Ary dia mampihomehy ahy izany androany satria afaka zato metatra teo ho eo niala ny Tetezam-Bato sy ny Tsena Tranainy dia kivy izahay. Zato metatra no nanasaraka anay tamin'ny fon'i Skopje !

Justyna Mleczak mijery avy eny ambony ny farihy Ohrid, avy eny amin'ny tendro iray amin'ny havoana Galičica. Sary nahazoana alàlana tam-pitiavana taminy.

Na izany na tsy izany, gaga aho tamin'ireo sarivongana rehetra, indrindra fa ny tantara miafina ananan'izy ireny. Ny ampitson'io izahay dia niato nisotro kafe tao Ohrid. Ny tiako hambara dia ny fianakaviako no nisotro kafe, fa izaho nitety tanàna. Tamin'io fotoana io aho no nanomboka naminavina sehatra iray holalinina.

Volana roa taorian'ny nodianay, nivoaka tao amin'ny Poznaj Świat, iray amin'ireo gazetiboky be mpahalàla indrindra ao Pôlônina ilay lahatsoratro momba an'i Albania [pl]. Naharay tolotra avy amin'ny vehivavy pôlôney iray aho mba hanao fizàrana asa tao Albania. Niasa niaraka taminy aho nandritra ny efatra taona nanaraka taorian'io tao amin'ny maosivohony mpisera dia, ary dia nanomboka ny fandalinako momba ireo ao Balkàna. Avy hatrany aho dia latsa-pitiavana tamin'ny fiteny makedôniàna ary nanapaka hevitra ny hanoratra tadidy ho fanomanana ny diplaoma master izay nifandray tamin'ny firehetam-poko. Tamin'ny Septambra 2016, nandeha nanao fikarohana nandritra ny volana enina tany aho. Nanoratra momba ny zavatra azon'ny fizahantany entina ho amin'ny famahàna fifandirana.

Nanomboka bilaogy iray aho. Karazana diary ilay izy, fomba iray nanazarako tena hanoratra bokin-tantara tsy noforoninia, indray andro any. Ary taona efatra taty aoriana.. izao no vokatra. Tsy mbola nanonta boky aho, tsy mbola nahavita ny ‘doctorat’.  Babom-pitiavana an'i Makedônia tamin'ny fomba tsy nampoizina.

Tantara lava be, sa ahoana ? Angamba ny tokony ho nolazaiko dia hoe : efa hatramin'ny fahadimy taonako no nanofinofisako an'izany !

VJ : Iza avy ireo fitodiana tena ankafizinao manokana ao Makedônia Avaratra, ary inona no antony?

JM: I do not have favorite destinations in Macedonia. I love places where I can meet interesting, smiling people willing to sit and talk, and here there are dozens of them. I stayed in Macedonia because I really feel like home here.

Stevce Donevski and Justyna Mleczak, photo used with her permission

Kratovo reminds me of Stevce Donevski who have already arranged me a meeting with half of Slow Food Macedonia community. If I were a singer and he was my manager, I would have won MTV Award in a year from now!

I have a great sentiment towards Prilep, for me it is an energetic and magical place. It is not a coincidence that Prilep is a hometown of my Macedonian language teacher, Zvonko Dimovski, whose contribution to the popularization of Macedonia among Polish students deserves special recognition.

Another order of recognition should be awarded to Malezan family from Ohrid, the owners of the most famous terrace among Polish professors, students and tourists. Trajanka Malezan is the person who believed in me from the very beginning and does not stop even when I no longer believe in myself. Recently Ramne village became a special place to me – but only thanks to Natasa Nedanovska. She has a hands, brain and heart from gold.

JM : Tsy manana toerana fitodiana ankafiziko manokana aho ao Makedônia. Tiako ireo toerana ahafahako mahita olona mahaliana, feno tsikitsiky maniry ny hipetraka sy hiresaka, ary eto dia ampolony maro ry zareo ireny. Nijanona tao Makedônia aho satria tena mahatsapa ho toy ny any an-tranoko izany aho eto.

Stevce Donevski sy Justyna Mleczak, sary nahazoana alàlana taminy.

Kratovo mampahatsiahy ahy an'i Stevce Donevski izay efa nikarakara sahady ho ahy ny fihaonana miaraka tamin'ny antsasak'ireo ao amin'ny vondrompiarahamonina Slow Food Macedonia. Raha mpihira aho ka izy no mpitantana, mety efa nahazo loka MTV Award herintaona talohan'izao!

Tiako be i Prilep, ho ahy io dia toerana iray majika sy mihetsiketsika. Tsy kisendrasendra ny hoe i Prilep no tanàna nipoiran'i Zvonko Dimovski, ilay makedôniàna profesora nampianatra ahy, izay mendrika omena fankasitrahana manokana ny fandraisany anjara tamin'ny fampahafantarana an'i Makedônia an'ireo Pôlôney mpianatra.

Tokony tolorana medaly ihany koa ny fianakaviana  Malezan ao Ohrid, tompon'ilay terrasse tena ankafizin'ireo profesora, mpianatra ary Pôlôney mpizahatany. Trajanka Malezan no ilay olona nino ahy hatrany am-boalohany ary tsy nitsahatra nanao izany rehefa iny izaho ilay niato tsy natoky tena intsony iny. Vao haingana ny vohitra ao Ramné no lasa toerana iray manokana ho ahy, ary izany, tsy noho iza fa noho i Natasa Nedanovska ihany. Tovovavy manana tànana, atidoha ary fo volamena.

VJ : Mahazo Pôlôney mpizahatany marobe ny faritra Makedônia Avaratra. Inona no antony heverinao fa mahatonga azy ireo ho liana amin'io toeram-pitodiana io ?

JM: Not sure. It is a bit of a fashion, a bit of fascination with the Balkans, a bit of looking for a cheaper alternative for holidays. Macedonia was famous among Poles long before the Polish crowds arrived here. We as a nation are known for “being everywhere” and the current pandemic situation perfectly confirms that.

I am not interested in these crowds. There are a few most common reasons for Poles to visit Ohrid: one day trip from Albania, transit or a few days stop on the way to Albania or during the Balkan trip and, especially since we have charters, relax with sunbathing by the Ohrid lake.

For a long time I cannot get over the fact that for our market and most Polish tourists Macedonia is only Ohrid and sometimes Skopje, perceived as sad, boring and chaotic. I slowly begin to understand that this kind of tourism is also needed – it is just not for me. I am focusing on people who want to slow down, sit, talk and experience. These people are true Macedonian lovers. They are coming back over and over again, delighted with food, culture, tradition, and top of the top – Macedonian people.

JM : Tsy dia azoko antoka loatra. Mety hoe fironana, kazarana fahababoana manoloana an'ireo ao Balkàna, toa fomba iray fivahinianana mora kokoa rehefa fotoana fialana sasatra. Talohan'ny nisian'ny firohotan'ireo andiana mpizahatany no efa nahafantatra an'i Makedônia ny Pôlôney. Izahay dia firenena iray hain'ny rehetra amin'ny hoe “hita any rehetra any” , ary manamafy tsara an'izany ny valanaretina misy amin'izao fotoana izao.

Tsy mahaliana ahy ireny olona ireny. Ireto no antony mahazatra azo anazavàna ny fisian'ireo  Pôlôney mpizahatany ao Ohrid : fitsangantsanganana mandritra ny andro iray mainga ao Albania, fiatoana iray na fijanonana andro vitsivitsy eny an-dàlan'i Albania, na koa fitsoriahana kely mankany Balkàna. Ary ambonin'ny rehetra, satria manana sidina ara-barotra mora vidy izahay, tonga ao mitsotsotra ry zareo no sady mitanina andro eny amoron'ny farihy Ohrid.

Nandritra ny fotoana efa aho no tsy nety nanaiky mihitsy ny hevitra hoe, ho an'ny tsenanay sy ny ankamaroan'ireo Pôlôney mpizahatany, i Makedônia dia azo fehezina fotsiny hoe i Ohrid ary indraindray i Skopje, toerana roa mampalahelo no itarafana azy, mahasorena, ary ambony ambany. Manomboka tsapako tsikelikely fa ilaina ihany koa io karazana fizahantany io, tsy hoe ho ahy irery ihany. Mahaliana ahy ireo olona tia maka fotoana, mipetraka, miresaka ary miaina zava-baovao. Ireny no tena hoe miraikipo tanteraka amin'i Makedônia. Miverina hatrany sy mandrakariva ry zareo ireny, finaritra amin'ny sakafo, ny kolontsaina, ireo fombandrazana ary indrindra fa ireo Makedôniàna.

VJ : Inona avy no lafiny tsara sy ratsy tsikaritr'ireo Pôlôney mpizahatany rehefa avy nitsidika an'i Makedônia Avaratra?

Justyna Mleczak and a group of Polish tourists in Ohrid, North Macedonia. Photo used with her permission.

JM: Well, it is a very difficult and general question. The average stereotypical Polish tourist complains about breakfast and lack of black tea… Jokes aside, hundreds of Polish tourists come to Macedonia, especially Ohrid. These are people with different experiences, expectations and needs.

I will answer differently – the biggest advantage and power I see is in people with passion, vision and idea. They form associations, work in non-governmental projects, devote themselves to protect what they recognize as a treasure. On the other hand, the biggest disadvantage is ignorance of authorities who not only does not help but make the work harder and complicate things.

Justyna Mleczak sy andianà Pôlôney mpizahatany teo Ohrid, Makedônia Avaratra. Sary nahazoana alàlana taminy ny fampiasàna azy.

JM : Izao e, fanontaniana iray manjavozavo sarotra valiana izany. Misy Pôlôney mpizahatany lambda mitaraina noho ny sakafo marainany sy ny tsy fisian'ny dite mainty… Ndao ialantsika ny hanihany, fa an-jatony ireo Pôlôney mpizahatany no tonga ao Makedônia, indrindra fa ao Ohrid. Olona manana traikefa izy ireny, misy zavatra andrandrainy ary samy manana filàna tsy mitovy.

Hovaliako amin'ny fomba hafa : any amin'ireo olona manana firaketampo, manana hevitra maro, ary manainga anao hanana vina, no ahitako ny tena hery goavana indrindra sy ny hatsaràna. Mivondrona ho fikambanana izy ireny, miasa anaty tetikasa tsy miankina amin'ny fanjakàna, manolo-tena hiaro izay heverin-dry zareo ho toy ny rakitra sarobidy. Etsy ankilany, ny tena lafy ratsy ngeza indrindra dia ny tsy firaharahan'ireo manampahefana, izay tsy vitan'ny hoe tsy manampy fa vao mainka koa manamafy ny asa sy manasarotra ny zavatra rehetra.

VJ : Namely ny sehatra fizahantany eran'izao tontolo izao ny COVID-19. Ahoana no iatrehanao ireo fanamby ary inona no andrandrainao ho amin'ny hoavy?

Justyna Mleczak. Photo used with her permission.

JM: Tourism is a meeting place. It is communing with culture, with the past, present and future, broadening horizons and being able to see yourself in others. It has an unbelievable power both to build and destroy.

I do not expect anything. I am trying to work hard, hoping to establish a cooperation with two fantastic women, Jasmina Popovska and Katerina Vasileska, founders of Genuine Experiences platform, as I feel we are looking in the same direction. And I am going to continue to convince Poles that the Balkans is not a powder keg. It is a barrel of wine. To share and drink with others, no matter who they are.

Justyna Mleczak. Sary nahazoana alàlana taminy ny fampiasàna azy.

JM : Ambohipihaonana iray ny fizahantany. Fifandraisana amin'ireo kolontsaina, ny lasa, ny anio ary ny hoavy, fanitarana ny faravodilanitra ary fahafahana mitaratra ny tenanao ao anatin'ny fijerin'ny hafa. Hery tsy mampino, izay sady fanorenana no fandravàna io.

Tsy misy andrandraiko. Miezaka miasa mafy aho, amin'ny fanantenana hametraka fiarahamiasa iray aminà vehivavy roa mahafinaritra, Jasmina Popovska sy Katerina Vasileska, mpanorina ny vovonana Genuine Experiences, satria heveriko fa mitovy fijery izahay. Ary hitohy handresy lahatra ireo Pôlôney aho hoe ireo ao Balkàna dia tsy vanja milevina fa kosa tavin-divay iray ifampizaràna sy iarahana misotro amin'ny hafa, na iza izy na iza.